A progressive skin peel is the mildest course of treatment, removing only the outer layer of the stratum corneum with no visible peeling. Repeated treatments on a regular schedule, up to once a week, will cause mild exfoliation for the skin with cumulative effects. This is best described as a mild, yet refining, peel.
A mid-depth skin peel targets the intra-epidermal layer and may be administered every four to six weeks as needed. Light flaking may occur, similar to a sunburn peel. Mid-depth peels offer excellent rejuvenating effects with minimal to no down time.
A deep skin peel reaches the deepest intra-epidermal layers where skin peels in large segments. Skin becomes brown and crusted prior to considerable peeling, occurring three to four days after application. The typical recovery period lasts seven to ten days, with the treatment allowed up to twice per year. A deep peel restores and renews skin with the most dramatic results.
It is a common misconception that the higher the peel percentage, the stronger the peel. We are all so different, strength in peels is relative to the skin they are touching. Someone with Rosacea may benefit just as deeply from a progressive peel as would someone with thick, leathery skin a deep peel. Your skin care provider will assess your skin needs to provide you the best treatment unique to you.
Differences in Acid Formulations
Not all acids are created equal. It is important to know the four factors which can impact how an acid affects the skin. The four factors are chirality, pH, percentage, and base.
The science of chirality has an impact on how ingredients affect the skin. Chirality is a chemical process that takes the ingredient from its natural state and improves it by mirroring the more perfect side of the molecule. Think of it like handedness. When an ingredient has been chirally corrected the efficacy, strength, and purity is increased. To identify chirally corrected ingredients, look for the singular letter L, D, or R in front of or behind the ingredient name ie. L-Lactic Acid or Lactic Acid (L).
The pH of an acid affects how it penetrates through the acid mantel of the skin and into the epidermal layers. Healthy skin has a normal pH of 5.5 and acid formulations may range from a 3.0 or less. The lower the pH means the difference in an acids strength and how it will react with the skin.
Percentage of an acid is also important; however, how it reacts on the skin will also depend on the pH. You can have a 70% glycolic acid with a high pH and a 20% glycolic with a low pH and they will affect the skin differently. The 20% glycolic with the lower pH will penetrate the acid mantel and epidermal levels, creating a change in the skin.
What type of base the acid is in has an impact on how it will perform on the skin. Acids in a cream base will be more concentrated to the stratum corneum, versus an acid in a polymer base which will allow for more even penetration into the epidermal layers, thus creating a more even peel throughout.
Due to the high level of skin exfoliation associated with peels, you may expect some discomfort following treatment. While the majority of people describe any discomfort as minimal, experiences may vary depending on the type of skin peel administered and an individual’s pain tolerance. Rhonda Allison Post Care products are formulated to reduce skin irritations, itching, tenderness in the skin, and reducing the risk of pigmented scarring, while protecting and hydrating the skin, stimulating cell renewal, and ensuring healthy wound healing. Most people agree that any discomfort is offset by the dramatic improvements attained in skin appearance.
Your skin care practitioner will give you specific instructions to follow after your procedure – these post care instructions are as important to successful results as the peel itself. Post care treatment will include occlusive healing balms, epidermal growth factors for cell renewal and wound repair, calming topicals to reduce skin irritations, and sunscreen. Like all Rhonda Allison formulations, post care products are free of dyes, fragrances, and additives.
After the skin has healed, daily skin care is essential to maintaining results. Your practitioner will recommend a daily cleanser and sunblock in addition to a supportive cell rejuvenator. Additional specialty products, such as scrubs, antioxidants, eye serums, nighttime moisturizers, AHA’s, peptides, retinol, enzymes, masks and topical correctives may be prescribed based on your individual needs.